Designers mix whimsy and tailoring at Australian resort shows

Designer Toni Maticevski says the layers of silver leaves on one garment took weeks of work to prepare. The silhouette, he adds, just sort of randomly happened. He sketched dramatic trapezoid shoulders while working with a team member and then thought, “What if we actually put her head inside it? That could be really weird and kind of dumb but kind of amazing.”

Activewear label Nagnata introduced denim totes this season. Show director Joel Piccini and stylist Jessica Dos Remedios looped a tote over a model’s head and belted it, turning a basic shopping bag into a top.

Designer Alix Higgins says he has been trying to grow up each season. This time he returned to basics with a sense of fun, cutting polo shirts in half and turning them into bottomwear. Ribbons, internet-forward patterns and droopy headgear added small doses of whimsy.

Carla Zampatti designer Tanya Emon Beattie offered a lilac and crimson palette instead of the neutrals often favored by the label’s C-suite clients. The tailoring stayed refined, but the shift in tone moved the brand away from the beige brigade.

Gary Bigeni showed fluid, draped jersey dresses in a sky blue shade that stood out on a gloomy week. Model Bruna Lapinskas wore one with copper hair, styled by Jana Bartolo.

Bianca Spender paired opera gloves with sheer fabric, drapery, bubble-hemmed skirts, midriffs and tonal dressing. Olive greens and a jacket tied around the hips echoed aviation motifs throughout the show.

Christian Kimber presented loose but not oversized tailoring in natural fibers. An ikat-adjacent shirt pattern and a printed neck scarf added points of interest to the tonal look.

Mariam Seddiq showed a draped bodice with a trailing hemline, the kind of “going-out top” women pair with jeans or plain trousers. Here it was styled with leather trousers.

Esse designer Charlotte Hicks sent out a satin dress with a draped bodice, fringed hem and dulcet tones. The look delivered ease, flattery and a touch of drama.

Ngali designer Denni Francisco focused on space, softness and light. A water-resistant cotton coat carried subtle circle embellishments that represent waterways on country. A lavender headscarf printed by Gija artist Lindsay Malay showed one of many ways to wear the scarves in the collection.

L’Idee Woman co-founder Breeana Smith presented a signature pleated kaftan with trailing sleeves. Former Victoria’s Secret angel Taylor Hill modeled the look.

Student designer Luke Rutherford-Durney closed the Tafe fashion design school runway with “The Heiress,” a hoodie tracksuit for a princess. A floating belt made from plywood and discarded building materials created the tabletop silhouette, while the shredded hemline and train moved on their own.