Louis Vuitton designer draws on trunk-maker roots for new collection

Inside a modest building outside Paris, Nicolas Ghesquière keeps the archives of Louis Vuitton. The designer said the collection of trunks and documents can feel intimidating, yet it remains the place where he finds the house's secrets.

Ghesquière described the story of Louis Vuitton as one of innovation. The founder, born in 1821, started as a trunk-maker and built the company on a flat, stackable trunk that replaced the rounded tops then common in luggage. That change made travel easier and turned Vuitton luggage into a status symbol.

The designer said the brand still balances function, craftsmanship and new ideas. At the family home and workshop on the outskirts of Paris, Pierre-Louis Vuitton, the founder's great-great-great-grandson, oversees production of trunks made the same way they were 172 years ago. He said each trunk is built to last a lifetime.

The interlocking L-V monogram remains one of the most recognized and copied marks in the world. Louis Vuitton is now the largest luxury brand globally. Ghesquière said he tries not to dwell on the company's size because every decision carries economic and creative weight.

When he works on a new collection, Ghesquière returns to the image of the original trunk. He imagines each season as opening a trunk and discovering what might be inside, from colors to personal memories. His Petite Malle, a small clutch modeled on the classic trunk, holds a phone and keys.

The designer previewed the cruise collection that will show this week in New York. It includes a collaboration with the estate of the late artist Keith Haring. Ghesquière said the clothes and bags will carry the influence. He added that fashion succeeds when it offers something new and different.

The 2026 cruise collection debuts at the Frick in New York City on May 20.